Curt Manufacturing 13558 Class III Receiver

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Price: $149.52 $132.99   

Product Feature

• 2" Receiver Tube Opening
• Gross Trailer Weights (GTW) and Tongue Weights (TW) vary by application
• Never exceed vehicle weight rating
• Hitch Ball sold separately
• Limited Lifetime Warranty to original purchaser

Product Description

All CURT hitches feature WeatherTite construction, which prevents rusting from the inside out by sealing the main body of the hitch. The receiver tube has an open back end to allow for easy cleaning and for dirt and moisture to pass through and not get trapped as is common with other brands of hitches. All CURT hitches come with mounting hardware and installation instructions. CURT is the only hitch company in the industry that mechanically de-scales all of our hitches before applying a thick powder coat finish, which is baked on for a high-gloss, smooth surface. CURT trailer hitches are simply the most attractive, most durable and toughest hitch on the market. You won’t find better quality and value anywhere!

Curt Manufacturing 13558 Class III Receiver Review

I got this hitch for my FX35 mainly for using a bike rack. I could have bought the smaller 1 1/4 hitch but then I would not have the option to get a u-haul trailer, or tow a boat or wave-runner etc in the future.

Installation:
I opted to install the hitch myself, and it is a simple install except for 2 of the bolts. You follow the instructions in the pamphlet, and you'll be fine until you get to the 2 drilled bolts.

original instructions, and additional detail:

1. remove your gravel shields by removing plastic push pins
a. First you have to take off your mudguards
b. Pull out the middle part of the pins, and then pull the whole thing out. there are several different sizes of these, so keep track of which ones came with the
c. Lower exhaust. The instruction tells you to pull the rubber things off, but its a lot easier to just unbolt the brackets instead

2. Attach hitch to vertical weld nut plate... there is an existing nut that you bolt the big bolt into, I would leave it loose for now so you can adjust if necessary.

3. Pull fascia forward and drill four places into the bumper. Here a lot of people recommend just taking the whole bumper apart. (I think this will be quite a task, and I was worried it might not go back on exactly perfect. I used a broomstick as a wedge to pry it out and a piece of cardboard to keep the drill sides from grinding the bumper cover. Also you will need to drill the holes a little bigger than the bolts, since you have to pull the bolt through while its got the fishwire attached to it.

4. Fish-wire the bolts into the holes... ok heres the tricky part. if you took the bumper apart this is no issue, but if not. The outside 2 bolts you can get your hand up and drop into the holes (do these last), but the 2 inside ones are much more difficult. inside the hollow square tube pictured in the manual are 2 bolts and a styrofoam peg, none of which are pictured in the installation guide.
By the way, the fish-wire tool screws onto the end of the bolt after you put the rectangular washer on. (It took me a while to figure out how to use it.)
So to get the inside bolts in:
a. Push the empty fish-wire tool into the drilled hole, and out of the end of the bumper.
b. Attach the bolt with rectangular washer on the end of it. (I would screw it as far in as you can.)
c. Pull the bolt into the bumper.
d. Wiggle the bolt like crazy until you hear/feel it fly to the inside of the obstructions.
d. pull the bolt out of the hole. (hopefully you drilled the hole wide enough)

5. Tighten the bolts.

6. Re-Attach exhaust, and put all the guards you removed back on.

You might want to also install a wiring harness for the trailer, I haven't done that yet, but i have a feeling that would be easier to do while you have the back apart.

Hopefully this saves you a little time, I will see if I can upload some pictures to help as well.

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