CURT Manufacturing 11025 Class 1 Trailer Hitch, Pin and Clip
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Product Feature
- 1.25 In. receiver tube opening
- Gross Trailer Weights (GTW) and Tongue Weights (TW) vary by application
- Never exceed vehicle weight rating
- Ball mount not included
- Made in USA. Limited lifetime warranty to original purchaser
Product Description
CURT Manufacturing focuses on being first-to-market with our new custom fit hitch designs. CURT is the only hitch company in the industry that mechanically de-scales all of our hitches before applying a thick powder coat finish leaving an attractive high-gloss, smooth surface. You will have no worries about your product rusting, as CURT features WeatherTite �� construction which seals the main body of the hitch. All CURT hitches come with mounting hardware and easy to follow installation instructions. Our class 1 hitches have a 1-1/4 In. receiver opening, and rate up to 2,000 Lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) and 200 Lbs. tongue weight (TW). We're so confident in the quality of our receiver hitches that we back them up with a limited lifetime warranty and a one year finish warranty.CURT Manufacturing 11025 Class 1 Trailer Hitch, Pin and Clip Review
The first one I purchased came with severe damage to the product but not the box leading me to believe it was a return , not new and shipped out to me by mistake. after contacting Amazon via email, a new one arrived a week later without contact or instructions from vendor. 5 days later a Fedex guy appeared on my doorstep expecting the old one of which my wife nor I knew since of course, we were never provided any communication by the vendor.Instructions were good for installing. I did it by myself in under an hour after reading and re reading the instructions. (Take special note of the instructions on feeding the bolts in the forward hole)/ Prepare tools ahead of time. It requires some dismantling of the trunk paneling. In my 2012 Optima with dual exhaust I raised my car on two floor jacks to facilitate me being on a creeper, then pulled each exhaust off individually using jack stands to support each one forward of the mufflers then finally a third to support the center piping after it was removed from the rubber suspended holder. (make sure this is cool then use windex or something to spray on the rubber, it helps lubricate the rubber and the pipes slide right off without too much effort. The biggest pain was enlarging the forward bolt holes from under the car as indicated by instructions. It is a tight space and I had to use a dremel tool with cutting blade which did the trick. Anything bigger will take you longer and probably be a headache. Wear goggles as your face will be close due to the proximity. Don't forget to re-install the heat shields prior to re-installing pipes. I did and had to remove them again to put the shields in. That was the only hiccup in the evolution. If you are not mechanically inclined, do not attempt this yourself or even with a friend that "says" they are helpful. (too many cooks in the kitchen etc.) Two people could be helpful when holding in place while threading first bolt. I got through it, but it was a pain as the bolts are just floating and the nuts tend not to cooperate when you need them to most. LOL! Muscles definitely got fatigued but they persevered.
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